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April 30, 2013 | in North America, Travel

High Above Manhattan

nyc

One of my very most favorite places in New York exists thirty feet above the city.

hudson river highline park nyc
Looking out over the west side of Manhattan and the Hudson River.

Beginning in 1847, an actual railway ran down the very busy 10th Avenue on the west side of Manhattan.  Like seriously down the middle of the street.

A freight train.

10th ave highline park nyc
I’m no 19th century city planner, but this don’t scream freight train to me.

When the train started colliding with pedestrians & their horses and carriages, the civil engineers started thinking that street-level tracks was maybe not the best plan.  And then a glorious idea lightbulb went off…

NYC decided to combat the Death Train by employing what became known as The West End Cowboys: men who would ride on horseback in front of the train and help prevent accidents.

These days "West End Cowboy" has a very different meaning in the Chelsea neighborhood.
These days in the Chelsea neighborhood, “West End Cowboy” has a very different meaning. Mr. M in particular learned that the hard way when I insisted on taking line dancing lessons at some place called The Flaming Saddles Saloon.  Saddles were not the only thing flaming, kids.

The Death Train was still able to claim a few victims each year- likely because people were so distracted watching the urban rodeo that they forgot to watch out for the train.

Seventy years later, NYC finally had to admit that city folk, like cats, aren’t great at being herded.  In 1934, the railway was moved to an elevated track, thirty feet above Manhattan, where freight trains could unload their wares directly into the Chelsea Market.

highline park chelsea market nyc
This is where the track enters into the Chelsea Market building… today, there are artists, vendors, and food carts set up.

Eventually an increase in interstate trucking decreased the need for the highline railway; it was abandoned and set for demolition in the 1980’s.highline park nyc

Luckily, a few determined folk thought it was something worth saving, and The High Line was approved as a public space. The first section of the park was opened to the public in 2009.

I love this aerial view of The High Line, courtesy of the park's conservancy.
I love this aerial view of The High Line, courtesy of the park’s conservancy.
high line park nyc
A view of the park during an autumn visit.

Day #11,327: Appropriately timed to celebrate the warmer weather and Earth Day, Mr. M & I decided to journey up to Chelsea for a stroll down The Highline.

spring nyc
It’s finally springtime! Isn’t this the coolest picture? It looks fake!

Even when the park is crowded, it’s still nice to be in the presence of relatively wide open spaces.

high line park nyc
Look at that lawn, just begging to be picnicked upon…

One of my favorite spots on The High Line is a sunken stadium that overlooks the madness of 10th Ave below.  It’s the perfect place to sit with a treat and just stare.  I recently saw a documentary short about the making of the park, and I loved the way the landscape architect described the view.  “It frames something that’s ordinarily thought of as extremely banal.  There’s nothing to see, but it’s mesmerizing.  Like staring into a crackling fire.”

highline park nyc overlook
It is really entrancing to just sit and stare at traffic going by, but on the off-chance this works… are any of you crazy New Yorkers interested in reinstating the urban cowboy?

The High Line has become one of Manhattan’s major tourist destinations.

highline park nyc
I’m unabashedly guilty of “touristing” in my own city. I couldn’t resist the photobombing Empire State Building in the background.

It is *always* crowded with camera-laden visitors and locals wanting to soak up a few pools of sunlight on the built-in wooden chaise lounges.  And is its popularity any wonder?

Every once in awhile, it’s refreshing to get a different perspective on my concrete jungle.

nyc

When my dear friend Lis & I happened into an indoor pop-up park last January- complete with picnic benches, flowery wall murals, a lemonade cart, and heat lamps- in what used to be a clothing store, Lis commented on how she’s forever taken with the ingenuity of NYC’s public spaces.  And it’s true!

For all its concrete, Manhattan recognizes the importance of putting nature on a pedestal.

high line park nyc
Spring is nature’s temptress.

Or an elevated train line, as the case may be.

high line park nyc

Details of the Day:

Getting up to the Highline: Since The High Line is only a mile in length, it makes sense to start at either the northern (30th St just west of 10th Ave) or southern (Ganesvoort just west of Washington) edge and stroll its length.

Looking south
Looking south

Chelsea Market: At 15th St, The High Line abuts (hee hee) the Chelsea Market, an industrial wonderland of stores and cafes and food stands.  Yum um um. When we first moved to New York City from San Francisco, the Chelsea Market reminded Homesick Me of SF’s Ferry Building.

It’s totally worth venturing off The High Line for a brief and scrumptious tangent.  Take the stairs or elevator down at 15th St and you’ll see a Market entrance along 10th Ave.

chelsea market nyc

On a wintery day, Sarabeth’s serves up some of my favorite hot cocoa in Manhattan.  Posman’s Books is always fun for a quick perusal. And when it’s springy and flowerful outside, a strawberry basil People’s Pop makes me Very, Very Happy, indeed.

Nothing says warm weather like a popsicle.
Nothing, but nothing, says warm weather like a popsicle.

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Tags: history Manhattan nature New York photography train USA
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Comments

  1. Nikitaland April 30, 2013 Reply

    Thanks so much for the tour! Loved this post!

    • msdulce May 1, 2013 Reply

      Oh I'm so glad! And thank you for stopping by. I'm sure you and Nikita would agree- if only dogs were allowed up on The High Line, it would be perfect! :)

      • Nikitaland May 1, 2013 Reply

        Most definitely it would be perfect!

  2. Rejoice For The Day April 30, 2013 Reply

    Beautiful pictures! I hope to one day be a tourist in your city. :-)

    • msdulce May 1, 2013 Reply

      Thank you so much! I hope you get to tourist around here, too! While it can sometimes be a trying place to live, NYC is a wonderful place to visit. :)

  3. pamasaurus April 30, 2013 Reply

    Um... yeah. That one photo totally does look fake. It's amazing! I reaaaaaaally want to go there now. It looks amazing. Every post you make about NYC goes on my list of things I want to see. I'm going to have to stay there a few weeks to fit everything in, I think! Now to start planning, haha.

    • msdulce May 1, 2013 Reply

      Yay, I love that I'm adding stuff to your NYC List of Places To See! The High Line is one of my top 3 favorite places in Manhattan. It's just so unexpected. The nice thing is that you live sorta close enough to come back a few times... no multi-weeks trip needed! (This is good because after a few weeks, the bustle & noise stops being fun and starts getting irritating!)

      • pamasaurus May 1, 2013 Reply

        I've been there twice. Once was with a club in College. We volunteered for The Carlisle Hotel in return for free rooms and food. We got a little time to explore the city, but it was January and very, very cold. We hit up some spots like the W Hotel and Bar (awesome bar, yo) and CBGBs before it closed. The second time was in the summer. My friend took me to see where he grew up in Brooklyn. Then we walked around Central Park forever and went to the top of the Empire State Building..... we even paid extra to go to the 102nd (I think) floor. It was pretty awesome. I should dig out my photos and post about it sometime, haha.

        • msdulce May 2, 2013 Reply

          You *should* dig out your photos and post about it... both of those sound like pretty excellent trips to NYC! Free room & board in exchange for volunteerism seems like a great deal, considering how ridiculously expensive hotels are now. :}

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