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March 29, 2013 | in North America, Travel

The City of Brotherly Love, Part One: The Size of Liberty

independence hall philadelphia pennsylvania

We’d visited Philadelphia once before- almost ten years ago when Mr. M & I went on a we-just-graduated-college roadtrip from Connecticut back home to LA.  My Operation: Roadtrip scrapbook confirms that our principal impression of Philly, circa 2004, was: “The Liberty Bell is a whole lot smaller than you’d imagine it to be.”

liberty bell philadelphia
It’s 2,000lbs and 3ft tall, so I don’t know what we were expecting. Sorry. Neither man nor bell likes to hear “it’s smaller than I was expecting.”

Mr. M determined “Small Bell” was an unsatisfactory Bottom Line to draw on the whole city of Philadelphia, so this past weekend we took an hour’s train ride west to uncover, more fully, the City of Brotherly Love.

Day #11,299: When in Philadelphia, one absolutely must get one’s U–S-of-A learn on.

elixr coffee philadelphia pennsylvania
But let’s not be hasty… breakfast first! This is clearly the adult version of the gingerbread house that the witch uses to lure Hansel & Gretel.  Coffee?  Down a dark alley?  Truth be told, I’d follow a coffee-this-way arrow even if it led directly into one of those windowless, unmarked rapist vans.

Back to the learning!  Independence Hall National Park is ground zero for all the colonial history that we associate with Philadelphia.  The Assembly Room of Independence Hall is where the Declaration of Independence and the design of the U.S. flag were adopted.

Declaration of Independence Philadelphia Pennsylvania
The actual Declaration of Independence on display in Congress Hall!!

It’s also where the Articles of the Confederation and the Constitution were drafted in the 1780’s.  Can you imagine all that history crammed into one room?

The only minor bummer in the midst of all this historical excitement was that Mr. M & I couldn’t find much background info whilst wandering the park.  Informational placards were pretty scarce for my taste… and the one park ranger we overheard was literally killing history in monotone for Philly’s schoolchildren.  Apparently you’re meant to study up beforehand.

barry statue independence hall philadelphia
Um, guys? I love a good “Barry” as much as the next gal, but without signage, I have no idea which Barry we’re celebrating here. I decided to take a picture… you don’t get a statue from being a run-of-the-mill Barry.

This mini-concern would’ve been somewhat alleviated by just starting our tour from the Independence Visitor Center, where there actually are abbreviated history lessons… and movies, to boot!  I dragged Mr. M into a particularly awesome one with a saucy Ben Franklin chronicling the adoption of the Constitution, and I was hanging on every olde English worde.

independence hall philadelphia pennsylvania

Before deciding to go to veterinary school, I spent a year+ in college thinking I was going to grow up to be a Supreme Court Justice.  When I was 17, “Supreme Court Justice” sounded like a job to which I would just… apply.  It took me a full year to understand that it might’ve been easier for me to become a card-carrying Space Cowboy, or to replace the Tooth Fairy.  No matter- I’ve always been really interested in jurisprudence, prison reform, and Constitutional law.  (There’s a point to this, I promise…)

My age-old love of law and the Constitution may have been the reason why I thought the visitor center’s Ben Franklin flick should’ve been the Cannes Film Fest’s Best Picture of the Year, and also why I turned to find Mr. M- and everyone else in our row- doing that painful head-jerking thing like they were falling asleep in class.  Wha?  I suppose the educational film garnered mixed reviews.

In the same Independence National Park area, you’ll find the (still small) Liberty Bell and a whole host of other historical sites.  I had a few birthday cards to mail and decided to stop by the Franklin Post Office, the country’s very first post office, where outgoing mail gets a special handstamp.

Benjamin Franklin himself served as the first Postmaster General.

franklin post office philadelphia pennsylvania
The very first U.S. Post Office! Thanks, Ben Franklin!

Walking around the Old City, it soon became clear that if there was anything- anything– going down in Philly in the late 1700’s, Ben Franklin had a finger in it.  He invented bifocals, helped establish UPenn, organized Philly’s first fire station, and wrote Poor Richard’s Almanack by the time he was 26.

american philosophical society philadelphia
He also founded the American Philosophical Society.  We all have some catching up to do.

Excuse my language, but how the HELL do you get that much done?  Mr. M thinks B.F. must’ve had interns.  Perhaps if I had a little more Franklin in my step- or an intern-, I’d be a Supreme Court Justice (or a Space Cowboy) already.  Ben is probably judging my sloth from above with his self-made bifocals.

ben franklin philadelphia pennsylvania
Remember that Seinfeld where George has a run-in with the fictional Van Buren Boys streetgang dedicated to celebrating our 8th President? Well, this is FRANKLIN’S hood.  (And that’s an “F,” if you’re not gangsta enough to see it.)

In addition to a whole bunch of U.S. history, Philadelphia is also acclaimed for its yummy eats.  Mr. M was determined to get to know one item in particular a little bit better: the infamous Philly Cheesesteak.

philly cheesesteak
This recommended hole-in-the-wall place on 18th St just south of Chestnut was deemed a winner by carnivorous Mr. M.

With a whole day still left in the weekend, we were beginning to feel a lot more… love… for the city of Brotherly Love.

This Clarence Darrow quote from the visitor center stuck with me.  So true.
Amen to that.  Liberty and justice to *ALL,* says the Supreme Court Justice inside me.

It’s not the size of the bell… it’s what you do with it.

To explore my next day’s adventure with Steve Buscemi in the country’s first penitentiary, click here!

Details of the Day:

Travel Tips: Here’s to you, Philadelphia City Planner (Benjamin Franklin probably did that, too, who are we kidding).  Philly’s Amtrak Station is within easy walking distance of its downtown, so really don’t need a cab if you’re arriving via train and staying centrally.

Plan Ahead: Because our trip was last-minute, I admittedly did a terrible job planning ahead.  Don’t be like me.  Reserve your free ticket to tour Independence Hall ahead of time here, so that you’re not disappointed.  By the time we showed up at noon, all the tickets for the day had been sold out!

independence hall philadelphia pennsylvania
Independence Hall from the outside.

Khmer Kitchen: When we realized that one of the top-rated restaurants in Philly was Cambodian food, it took 0.2 seconds to decide that would be our dinner spot.  Mr. M & I are always on the search for new cuisines, and neither of us had any idea what Cambodian food entailed.  While the restaurant itself was in a semi-sketch part of town (the owners pulled bars over the windows shortly after we arrived), the food was SO GOOD, and we were the only non-Cambodians there.

Bok la hong (green papaya salad).... mmm...
Bok la hong (green papaya salad)…. yum!

Spicy and seafood-centric, Cambodian cuisine lost popularity in the U.S. during the horrific Khmer Rouge regime of the 1970’s, but this sorta-kinda mix of Vietnamese, Thai, & Indian is making a comeback.  SO GOOD.  (And cash only at Khmer Kitchen.)

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Tags: food history Pennsylvania Philadelphia photography USA
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Comments

  1. pamasaurus March 29, 2013 Reply

    I have so much to comment on this. I'm a Philly history buff (because it's so close for me to explore). That's Commodore John Barry, the father of the US Navy. There's a bridge named after him... it's the bridge I cross 99% of the time to get from Jersey to Pennsylvania! And.. of course Ben was saucy! He was a known ladies' man. Apparently women have reported pennies being thrown at them while waiting for the bus at the stop by his grave. "a penny saved is a penny earned, *winkwink*" Where did you end up getting the cheesesteak?! I can't wait to hear more!!

    • msdulce March 30, 2013 Reply

      We finally made it out to your city! Apparently we needed you around as a fount of historical information. :) Thank you for solving The Mystery of The Unknown Barry! Although perhaps it isn't such a mystery for locals- and those commuting in on the Commodore's bridge. Oh that cheeky Ben... tossin' coins at the ladies? (Kinda inappropriate, but I just imagined that perhaps throwing pennies in the air was the colonial version of 'making it rain.' Hee hee.) The cheesesteak place was Tony Jr's on 18th St. It doesn't seem to get great yelp reviews, but Mr. M gave it two greasy thumbs up & said it was yum-nummy.

  2. namasteawhile March 30, 2013 Reply

    Does part two include coffee down the dark alley? I so curious!

    • msdulce March 30, 2013 Reply

      Ha ha, I'm sorry to have left you hanging, Namaste! It *was* a bit of build-up without resolution. :) Happily, there were no witches or rapists down the dark alley... just a hidden little coffee joint that persuaded me to leave with some scrumptious pastry called a "butter bar." Perhaps that was the dark alley's true hidden danger... high cholesterol! Thank you for stopping by!

  3. Pingback: The City of Brotherly Love, Part Two: Free to Stroll | Spend Your Days

    […] was filled with colonial history and Philly cheesesteaks, but Sunday… Sundays are made to be indulgent.  Forgiving of obligation.  (Even when said […]

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  4. Pingback: On the Horizon: Japan, Cambodia, & Singapore - Spend Your Days

    […] after tasting Cambodian food for the first time on a recent trip to Philadelphia, I’m planning on arriving in Siem Reap […]

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