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November 30, 2012 | in Europe, Travel

Let Them Eat Cake

Marie Antoinette cake Laduree

Day #10,242: On the third day of our Parisian adventure, Mr. M & I woke up early in a futile attempt to beat the masses on their pilgrimage to the bourgeoisie capital of France.  (Try as you may, my friends, it ain’t gonna happen.  Unless you steamroll your way through the interior like you’re sprinting to the finish line of an imaginary race, you WILL be forced to enjoy Versailles with all the other tourists.)

The train left us a few tree-lined, suburban blocks from the main entrance to the Palace.  I was feeling Frenchly smug at having arrived without incident.  Until we ran smack into the horrific entry and security line.  Seriously, the line into Versailles is rather epic, so arrive as soon as possible- post morning cappuccino + croissant, of course.

Versailles gate
Also epic is this blinging golden thing-a-kabob on the Versailles gate.

Once through the security line (or perhaps, including it), the Palace is visually, physically, historically overwhelming.

Royal Chapel Versailles

Any way you slice it, it’s difficult to get a sense of the scope.  How can so much time and toil and war and love be crammed into one place?  In a way, Baroque architecture, with its more-is-decidedly-more, when-in-doubt-bedeck-it-in-gold outlook is really satisfying for a historical locale; it mirrors the layers and layers of… everything… existent in the place itself.

Versailles Hall of Mirrors
The famous Hall of Mirrors, where the Treaty of Versailles was signed to end World War I… the depth of history is just astounding.
Versailles ceiling
Mr. M & his audio guide under a gorgeous ceiling mural.

The Palace started out as a hunting lodge for the royal family, but Versailles really became Versailles when Louis XIV began massive building and landscape projects in 1632.  The next two Louises (the plural of ‘Louis’?  Anyone?) took it from there, until Versailles became the gargantuan symbol of absolute monarchy that it is today… and then came the boiling point and the start of the French Revolution.

I would not mind if swashbuckling pantaloons made a comeback.

After the Main Palace, we meandered the gardens (I say this like it wasn’t a giant trek… even for a city dweller like I, Versailles involves a lot of walking.  Parisian designer stilettos are not your friends on this day trip, stylish city girls).

Versailles garden
This wonder of landscape architecture, the Versailles Orangerie, was created before construction on the Palace even begun.

Even in the dead of winter, the gardens are a sight to behold.

Versailles garden

It was nearly impossible to imagine someone actually living at Versailles and using the gardens as a ‘backyard.’  It’s seems gauche to bust out a Weber Smokey Joe grill on such a stately lawn… perhaps it was best that the palace was lived in long before Smokey Joes.  Although it appears as though one famous resident had similar sentiments.

Versailles gardens
Skipping gaily through the gardens as I imagined Louis XIV might have in his day.

As a concession from the King, Marie Antoinette had her own cozy estate built on the grounds (presumably where she could loosen her corset, leave her hair unpowdered, and set up the 18th century version of a Smokey Joe)… something a little less baroque-exploded-all-over-my-walls and a little more down-home.  The Queen came from relatively modest means and apparently never felt comfy in the vast sprawls of regal rococo.

And perhaps because the royals also appreciated the joys of ‘slumming it’ once in a while, there was also Grand Trianon, the royals’ home away from home, still on Versailles grounds.

Grand Trianon
Had I been born a French royal, I would’ve been banished.  My first thought upon seeing this hallway in Grand Trianon is how utterly awesome it would be to run & slide down these polished wood floors in socks.

Having got a plush taste of the swish life- and a few blisters from all that garden-walkin’, Mr. M & I were ready to head back from our vacation within a vacation.  I will admit, it’s a tiny bit easier to pull yourself away from the magic of Versailles when you know you have Paris to go home to.

All that walking will make a girl munchy, and I knew just where to stop: Laduree, the famous Parisian macaronerie in a Baroque wonderland that we’d happily stumbled upon the day before.  Let them eat cake, indeed.

Marie Antoinette cake Laduree
Can I marry a cake?

The all-too-appropriately named Marie Antoinette cake from Laduree caused my undoing.  I squealed at it, posed with it like a Japanese tourist, and cursed myself for not having the foresight to serve mini Marie Antoinette cakes at our wedding. Mr. M audibly wondered about being tied to a woman who could be sent into histrionics by a dessert.

We were still in a regal state of mind and decided to wrap up our day visiting the Tomb of Napoleon at the Royal Chapel in the Hotel des Invalides.

Hotel des Invalides
Even without the added attraction of Napoleon’s Tomb, the building itself is a rococo masterpiece.

Like Napoleon’s persona, the Royal Chapel is larger-than-life.  The glowing altar surrounding his tomb is simply magnificent.

napoleons tomb
I posed for a picture with Napoleon’s Tomb, then felt insensitive… what’s the correct etiquette regarding posing with a tomb?  Smile?  Look somber?  I ended up with a bunch of awkward photos where I’m baring my teeth like a confused baboon.

Having extolled the virtues of the ruling class, we ended the night with a boat ride down the Seine… and a glimpse of the glittering royalty that currently presides over the city of Paris.

Eiffel Tower

Paris is a city of excess.  Of architecture dripping in gold, of gorgeous little cakes done up in fondant and dragee, of layer upon layer of history.  There’s nothing to do but give in to the sparkling lavishness and, of course, eat cake.

Details of the Day:

Transportation:  From Paris, take the RER train to Versailles Rive Gauche.  It’s an easy, scenic train ride seemingly filled with loads of other tourists headed to the exact same place.  The subway system in Paris is a breeze and will make you want to spearhead a movement toward better public transportation here in the U.S.  As in any foreign country, it’s best to memorize the number of subway stops till your destination- unless you speak French, the destination name may sound like romantically nasal gobbledegook.

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Comments

  1. Eagle-Eyed Editor November 30, 2012 Reply

    Oh, my. Baroque explosion! I like your comment about when in doubt, bedeck it with gold. LOL!

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      :) Glittery, gilded Baroque-ness everywhere you turn! It's definitely fun to look at, but I'll leave the more-is-more style to French kings of yore...

  2. sammystephenson November 30, 2012 Reply

    I know what you mean when you say you WILL be forced to enjoy the palace with all the other tourist. I didn't mind being with the hordes of people as much as the fact that the second we got three rooms into the palace I needed a salle de bains and I couldn't find one for the life of me! That and the Gardens where closed due to the fact that they had to bedeck more things with gold or some other lame excuse... I can't wait to go back and experience them for myself. How were they?

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      Ah yes! The line to the salle de bains was possibly the only thing more epic than Versailles itself! I was squirming like a small child by the time I made it in. Whew. That's too bad that the gardens were closed during your visit... the grounds are so huge, they could at least throw you a corner of regal lawn, right? One measly little orchard or swan-filled fountain? Hopefully your next visit will have a little more greenery to balance out the gold. ;)

  3. pamasaurus November 30, 2012 Reply

    Those gardens are AWESOME. I love it!

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      I know! I'd love to have some swirly lawn designs like those. ...or just a lawn... Best start small. :)

  4. homemadewithmess November 30, 2012 Reply

    Paris is my favorite city in the World, you're pictures have brought back so many amazing memories!

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      Paris is just gorgeous... I'm so happy the post gave you a little "return visit" until you can get back to the City of Lights for real!

  5. Hitch-Hikers' Handbook November 30, 2012 Reply

    Lovely photos! Paris is great, isn't it? If you like photography, we’d like to invite you to participate in our next Travel Photography Competition. Here are the details: http://hitchhikershandbook.com/your-contributions/travel-photography/ Happy travels!

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      Thank you! And big congratulations on being featured on the Daily Post this morning!!! Well-deserved. :)

      • Hitch-Hikers' Handbook December 4, 2012 Reply

        Thanks a lot! :)

  6. denisediscovers December 1, 2012 Reply

    Versailles is absolutely splendid isn't it? European royals in the past seemed to live on a completely different planet. I don't know if you've seen Schonbrunn near Vienna, but that's pretty amazing too, and follows the principle of putting on as much gold as possible.

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      'Living on a completely different planet' is such an apt description. It certainly was gorgeous to get a glimpse of that very otherworldly place. Thank you for the travel recommendation! Mr. M & I were thinking of going to Austria for New Years, and I will put the glittering & golden Schonbrunn on our list. Thanks again!

  7. Kurt December 1, 2012 Reply

    Paris is too photogenic.

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      It really is... the city is just brimming with so many gorgeous details begging to be captured!

  8. Rejoice For The Day December 1, 2012 Reply

    I have had the joy of touring Versailles myself. It really is something else! However, I didn't have the joy of eating such delicious looking cake. I wish I would have. ;-)

    • msdulce December 4, 2012 Reply

      That just means there's a good excuse to return! Cake does count as a viable, irrefutable reason to fly to Paris, right? :)

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