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November 6, 2013 | in Australia & New Zealand, Travel

On the Ice in New Zealand

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island

I did not expect to find myself on top of a glacier.

Glaciers are, universally speaking, fairly Epic.  You really don’t need to be on top of one to appreciate it.

Besides, doesn’t that sort of stunt require dangling precariously above frozen crevasses with ice picks for hands?

Fox Glacier New Zealand South Island
I have a healthy respect for the Power of the Ice.

Fox Glacier sits frozen on the west coast of New Zealand’s south island.  (‘Sits’ is actually wildly inaccurate, as glaciers are constantly moving… but that’s hard to tell when you look up and see nothing but a giant wall of ice.)

As one of the most easily accessible glaciers in the world, Fox Glacier offers a unique chance to get an up-close view.  No ice-picks-for-hands required.

Day #10,293: You know it’s gonna be a good day when the morning begins with waterproof MC Hammer pants and alpine-style hiking boots.

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
Modeling our tres chic glaciering ensemble. Schmexy.

Because the glacier is constantly in motion and huge chunks of ice can unexpectedly calve, scaling the glacial face is frowned upon and a really stupid idea for people who don’t know what they’re doing (ME).

Fox Glacier New Zealand South Island
Instead, we hiked along the edge of the glacier to ascend the side.

I like to think I’m a spry young whippersnapper, but I was sweatin’ in my glacier gear by the time we reached the top.

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
Looking back on our path through the valley that Fox Glacier has created.

Before slipping out onto the ice, Mr. M & I strapped on crampons, The World’s Most Awkwardly-Named Gear.  Crampons are the Death Match version of the Fisher-Price rollerskates that I used to velcro on over my shoes in preschool.

Instead of plastic orange wheels, they have viciously sharp metal spikes on the bottom to keep you from slipping and sliding across the ice.

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
You really had to whack your feet into the ice with each step to keep from slipping.  Thank you… crampons.

Making our way onto the wet, electric blue was magical.  It almost seemed as though the purplish-blue hues were trapped within the ice.

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
It’s so blue! This section reminded me of a giant, frozen brain with its longitudinal fissure and jellied, dimpled lobes.

It was overwhelming to be a little speck of human in the midst of something So Massively Massive.  (It’s a little like being a little speck of human in the midst of the Universe, but slightly easier for me to wrap my head around.)

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
It takes a while for that sort of philosophy to sink in. Especially so early in the morning.

We stood silent over the ice, breathing in chilly air and watching the sun cast otherworldly shadows deep within the glacier.  For something that moves at a, well, glacial pace, the ice is a surprisingly dynamic place… groans and drips and shifting prismatic colors.

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
I was surprised to learn that Fox Glacier was actually advancing from 1985 to 2009!  I always picture all glaciers to be retreating, everywhere.  Guess that’s a pretty broad view to hold.

It was such a different experience getting to know the glacier up close and personal.  I was a little sad to leave.  (And a little exhausted from cramponing around- it’s a word now- but ‘exhausted’ is not a good reason to throw in the adventuring towel.)

After we’d trekked back down to base camp and shed our Hammer pants, Mr. M & I decided to walk the 90-minute path around Lake Matheson.

Lake Matheson Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
The lush trail around Lake Matheson. Like the rest of New Zealand, it’s supremely beautiful.

Lake Matheson was created when Fox Glacier retreated 14,000 years ago.  Today, it’s a gorgeous place to spend a few hours just enjoying nature’s details.  The earth smelled wet and mossy and alive.

New Zealand is made for being outdoors.

One of the South Island’s iconic images is the view of Mount Cook reflected in the lake.

Mt Cook Lake Matheson Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
Kinda? Sorta?  That’s the base of Mt Cook at least!

The clouds pretended not to know what we were there for (we have that problem sometimes), but it didn’t matter one bit.

There’s a saying about not being able to see the forest for the trees- that getting caught up in the details obscures the big picture.  But when the forest- or glacier- is so dramatically impressive, the details make that monumental beauty accessible.

Lake Matheson Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
A little detail that more than made up for not capturing that perfect shot of Mt. Cook: a crafty hiker made rosettes out of these lakeside leaves!

Sometimes, it seems, the details are the big picture.

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
The two hikers about halfway down the pic on the left give some scope of the HUGENESS of Fox Glacier.

Explore my next day’s adventure… spelunking with glow-in-the-dark insects & monster cave eels!

Details of the Day: I booked the Fox Trot Half Day Walk with Fox Guides Glacier Guiding and was really happy with the choice!  Our group was small, and the guides were really friendly (as most Kiwis are!).  They’ll loan you waterproof pants, hiking boots, and crampons.  I booked a half-day glacier trekking excursion, partly to save a bit of $$ and partly because I wanted time to explore the rest of the Fox Glacier area.  Four-ish hours was more than enough time to have quality one-on-one time with the glacier, and both Mr. M & I were happy with the decision.

Dressing the Part: As you might guess, glacier trekking can get a bit chilly- especially if you’re visiting during New Zealand’s winter months.  Be sure to wear at least three layers on top to keep from getting too frosty.  (We visited in the Southern Hemisphere’s winter and was happy I rocked long underwear and a pair of pants underneath the Hammer pants.)

Fox Glacier New Zealand south island
My woollen hat & mittens kept me toasty warm!

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Tags: glacier hike landscape nature New Zealand photography South Island winter
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Comments

  1. pamasaurus November 6, 2013 Reply

    I'm still sad I didn't get to walk on a glacier, and this post makes me want it just that much more. It's amazing how small they seem from a distance, but then you notice the small details (like the hikers, or we saw footprints on one) that make the enormity of them jump out! It's just crazy!

    • Miranda November 8, 2013 Reply

      I know! As soon as there's something to give a sense of scale, it really is crazy how ginormous glaciers are! It seemed like you got pretty close to Exit Glacier. Walking on it will just have to be on the list for Next Time in Alaska. ;)

      • pamasaurus November 9, 2013 Reply

        There are walking tour things that take you out on it. We just didn't plan that far ahead. So, yes, it's going on my list of things to do next time!

  2. deliciousandmichelle November 6, 2013 Reply

    your photos are soooooooo beautiful! And they make me miss NZ!

    • Miranda November 8, 2013 Reply

      Awww, thank you so much for such a sweet compliment, Michelle! Are you lucky enough to be from NZ?! It's seriously one of the most gorgeous places I've ever seen.

      • deliciousandmichelle November 10, 2013 Reply

        I am - and your photos totally do the place justice! So pleased to hear you enjoyed your time there.

  3. gallivance.net November 7, 2013 Reply

    Miranda, you're amazing ... what an adventure! And the description of crampons where you managed to work in both "World’s Most Awkwardly-Named Gear" and "Death Match" - priceless. :) I do like the MC Hammer pants. Truly beautiful photos. My first up-close-and-personal with a glacier was in Alaska and I just couldn't believe the blue coloring. ~Terri

    • Miranda November 8, 2013 Reply

      Terri, as always, you're too kind! :) The electric colors are just amazing, aren't they? The full spectrum of blue seemed to be represented in that ice!

  4. Simone Anne December 4, 2013 Reply

    How cool is that! Love this adventure. I've been meaning to/ will hike/climb a glacier. Love this.

    • Miranda December 4, 2013 Reply

      Thanks, Simone Anne! Climbing a glacier wasn't on my list until the opportunity presented itself, but having done it- it was amazing! Such a different experience than observing the ice from afar. I hope you're able to check 'glacier' off your adventure list soon! :)

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