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October 8, 2013 | in Central & South America, Travel

The Fantastical Journey to Machu Picchu

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu

Okay.  My Machu Picchu Fantasy circa 2008 played out something like this: I trudge the famous 4-day Inka Trail armed only with grizzled walking stick and roll of TP, and summit the Intipunku Sun Gate just in time to watch the sun rise as a majestic crown atop Machu Picchu.  [Please note: in this fantasy my hair rivals Kate Middleton’s, “Eye of the Tiger” plays in the background, and only the view- not the dizzying altitude of 13,780 feet- has made me breathless. Maintain the fantasy.]

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
A Peruvian dancer at the beginning of our journey.

A month before leaving for the Galapagos archipelago– with no plans in sight to enact my Machu Picchu fantasy- Mr. M & I had the opportunity to add on a free extension trip to Peru (long story short, this Major Win stemmed out of originally being forced to reschedule our Ecuador travels).  But… the fixed itinerary didn’t allow us to hike the Inka Trail.

As much as I loved the fantasy, girlfriend’s not stupid.  Besides, “Eye of the Tiger” is overplayed, anyway.

Day #10,004: Instead of my usual self-planned travel, swashbuckling my way through the Peruvian Andes with a compass, a machete, and substantially bouncier, glossier hair than I have in real life, Mr. M & I found ourselves part of a tour.

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
Traditional dance at the train station in Poroy, near Cusco

After a twenty minute drive from Cusco to the town of Poroy, our tour group boarded the Orient Express’s Hiram Bingham train.  Considering that my original Fantasy Journey involved crusty hiking boots and dig-my-own toilets, journeying to Machu Picchu in gleaming luxury wasn’t an instantaneous plus.

But I decided to sit back and enjoy this gifted chance to take in a bit of opulence.  Honestly, as soon as I was handed a glass of pre-expedition champagne, I was feeling like the fantasy had just morphed into something new.  Something shinier.

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
Our trip from the gateway city of Cusco to Machu Picchu was completed in just one day- compared with the minimum four it takes to trek the imposing Inka Trail.

For all my backpacker snobbery (“Uhhh… if it doesn’t involve a walking stick, it’s not a REAL way to get to Machu Picchu…”), I absolutely adore train travel.  It’s such a wonderful opportunity to see countryside that you might otherwise have missed.

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
Nothin’ to do but enjoy the view!

And the Peruvian countryside was gorgeous.  Straight off an Impressionist’s canvas.

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
Doesn’t this look like a swirly Van Gogh landscape?

As our train wound its way towards the city of Ollantaytambo, I had my nose pressed against the window, drooling at all this pastoral scenery.  My steamy noseprint on the glass may not have been fitting with the distinct air of luxury that the Orient Express had created.  With its restored 1920’s Pullman cars, crisp, white linens; and sparkly table settings, the Hiram Bingham train was undeniably sumptuous.

train
The Hiram Bingham train is named after the explorer who conducted the first archaeological excavation of Machu Picchu in 1911. I couldn’t get over the fact that huge, mind-blogging ruins were still being unearthed as recently as the twentieth century!

We passed through a couple towns…

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
I was really excited to see a traditional Peruvian cemetery en route.

…and saw plenty of folks with the region’s next most popular means of transportation.

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
Every group of locals we saw along the way had at least one laden-down donkey with them.

A full meal (either brunch or dinner) is served onboard the Hiram Bingham train, and in between enjoying having the back balcony all to myself for picture-taking, I’d run back to our table and shovel down brunch.  The food was delicious and the presentation was amazingly elegant considering it was all put together in a train galley.

pisco sour hiram bingham train machu picchu peru
And- since the drink originated in Lima, Peru- of course there were pisco sours to be had.

Everybody was full and happy by the time our train started winding up the mountains towards the town of Aguas Calientes.

Soon enough, the tracks scooted alongside the Urubamba River, and I got my first view of the beginning of The Trail That Wasn’t To Be.

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
The footbridge you see here is part of the first day’s travel along the Inka Trail!  I got one ardent picture, then remembered I was traveling with yummy food, comfy seats, and real toilets.

As the train ascended, the scenery changed rather dramatically.

peru hiram bingham train machu picchu
It’s gettin’ jungley! Does that mean we’re almost there?!

As we trudged higher and higher, our guide told us to keep an eye out for spectacled bears, which live in areas of high elevation in South America.  I really wanted to see one in the wild, but The Universe decided I’d had more than my fair share of good luck already (what with the free trip to MP and all).

The final stop on the Hiram Bingham railway is the city of Aguas Calientes.  In fact, if you’ll be staying overnight anywhere other than the insanely expensive Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, you’ll be staying in Aguas Calientes.

aguas calientes peru machu picchu
Aguas Calientes was a hot bed of construction and activity- a testament to the many, many visitors that flock to Machu Picchu.

AC is just down the hill from the entrance to Machu Picchu.  And by just down the hill, I mean this:

I got into the bus that would zigzag us up this final peak and immediately buried my face in Mr. M’s jacket.  Despite imagining myself as Lara Croft, Tomb Raider in my travel fantasies, Real Me does not do well with heights or death-defying hairpin turns or, let’s face it, buses.

machu picchu peru aguas calientes road
THIS is the ungodly road that takes you from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu (as seen from our hike later that day).  It’s a little… rugged.

The one time I did look up, I saw sheer drop-off on the right and another bus headed RIGHT for us with zero passing room.  I shouted an impressive obscenity and must’ve returned to the safety of Mr. M’s armpit or blacked out, as I have no idea how we emerged at the entrance to Machu Picchu.  [Our touring companions urged me to “stay down” on the bus trip down.]

But an ancient wonder of such magnitude had to come with a little bit of adventure.

machu picchu peru

Besides, once we passed into the park, it was clear: a terrifying bus ride was no match for the awe-inspiring wonder of Machu Picchu.

To be continued…

Details of the Day:  I’m so thankful for the crazy-opulent experience Mr. M & I got, but I’d still love to return to do the Inka Trail.   If your own personal Machu Picchu Fantasy includes aperitifs and white glove service, definitely consider the Hiram Bingham!

The Hiram Bingham Train:

PROS:

*It’s undeniably fancy-schmancy.  But not so stuffy that you’ll feel at all out of place in hiking boots and fleece jackets… that’s the name of the game, after all!

     *The all-inclusive food is amazing.  Cocktails at the station, brunch on the way there, afternoon tea, and dinner on the way back means you’ll arrive at MP VERRY well-fed and ready to do some serious exploring to work it all off.

*There’s live music on the way back, after it’s too dark to enjoy the landscape.  Sounds cheesy, but it was really fun.  I may have danced, and it wasn’t all the pisco sour’s doing.

     *It includes all the extras: the roundtrip bus ticket from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, the entrance ticket, a guided tour of the MP Citadel, and afternoon tea at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (although I don’t want to meet the person who’d  sacrifice an hour of exploring MP to eat finger sandwiches, Mr. M & I ran inside and grabbed a scone before the death-ride bus trip back).

hiram bingham peru machu picchu train
Where I spent nearly all my time onboard, enjoying the scenery.

CONS:

*If you’re doing Machu Picchu in one day, the Hiram Bingham will only give you max 4 hours at the site (arrival around 12:45pm with bus departure at 4:45pm)

*Unless you’re a connoisseur of luxury rail travel (and the Hiram Bingham is definitely one of the so-called World’s Greatest Rail Journeys), all that elegance may not be worth the astronomical cost.  Our roundtrip tickets would’ve cost us each $350.  Or an extra $250 or so if you consider that the entry fee/bus was included.

I was going to do a pros & cons on taking the Hiram Bingham train vs. hiking the Inka Trail… but then I realized that’s really not a fair comparison.  Especially when there are many other options in between squatting in a dirt hole and being served a 4-course brunch on monogrammed china.  If you’re trying to sort out which ‘in the middle’ is best for you, read on:

hiram bingham peru machu picchu train
The countryside is the same no matter which train you take!

Train Travel: There are three different classes of train travel (each of which constitute their own train, not just cars within the same train), with The Hiram Bingham being on one end of the luxury spectrum.  The Expedition train is the most economical and is absolutely the one I would’ve booked had I been paying for my own travel.  Totally comfy seats that rival first class on a European rail service.  Don’t think twice.  There’s also The Vistadome train, which is a little more plush and has panoramic windows in the roof for even better picture-taking.  My personal opinion?  I’d do either the Expedition or the HB… I’m not sure what the extra $$ gets you in the Vistadome.

perurail machu picchu
Perurail had a monopoly on the route when we went, but Incarail has since been introduced.

More info on getting to Machu Picchu in the next post!

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Tags: Ecuador Galapagos hike landscape machu picchu peru photography train world heritage site
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Comments

  1. pamasaurus October 8, 2013 Reply

    I'm excited for the next post!! I've never traveled via train, and this looks like a pretty awesome ride. I'd also like to hike the trail, though. Decisions, decisions ;) That road looks like the one we accidentally ended up on in Alaska on our last day. I really thought we were going to die. Glad you made it safely!

    • Miranda October 8, 2013 Reply

      I think trains are my favorite mode of transportation! I loved all the different places that Amtrak would go from NYC- but our local travels probably would've been less train-heavy had we had a car on the east coast! I can't wait to hear about this Alaskan Death Road on your last vacation day! (When you have time, of course. Totally no pressure to fit more things into your day...)

  2. justjenng October 8, 2013 Reply

    So awesome! One of the Team Diabetes Canada destinations is Machu Picchu..but its the 16km hike not a train ride...I opted for Scotland but might try here next year...it looks stunning so far...can't wait to see your next post!

    • Miranda October 8, 2013 Reply

      Oh, wow!! I didn't think hiking Machu Picchu could get much better... but doing it for a good cause is clearly the cherry on top! You're going to have such a wonderful experience in Scotland- and I hope you're able to make it to Peru next year. Let me know so I can live vicariously through your hiking! ;)

      • justjenng October 8, 2013 Reply

        Yeah..I agree! Hopefully I'll be I. Good enougb shape to make it. It would be an amazing adventure ...

  3. Pingback: Having a Moment in Machu Picchu | Spend Your Days

    […] in real life.  Even the journey to get to Machu Picchu is slightly epic.  Whether by train (as Mr. M & I did) or by 4-day hardcore trek, you have a whole lotta time to imagine and re-imagine “Machu […]

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    […] having explored the world by train, snowmobile, and even camel- I have yet to experience a river […]

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