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October 3, 2012 | in Central & South America, Travel

Viva Brasil, Rio de Janeiro Part 2: Divine Intervention

Christ the Redeemer

Day #11,057:  After a most amazing half-day in possibly the most beautiful city in the world, I woke up sick as a dog.  Or at least as sick as Mr. M had been two days prior.

About the best you can hope for when sick in a foreign country is a robust healthcare system and divine intervention.  Lucky for me, we were headed to Corcovado that morning- home of Big Jesus. (“Christ the Redeemer” sounds so formal and like it should be followed with a boom of thunder.  I feel certain He’d prefer something a little more caj.)

Christ the Redeemer
Big J in all his supremely divine glory

After some serious Vitamin C-loading at breakfast (true to my hippie roots, I strongly believe most of the world’s ills can be solved with vitamin C), we took a crazy cab ride down the hills of Santa Teresa to Corcovado.

Trem do Corcovado
An adorable red tram takes you on a steep 20-minute ride straight up the hillside to the base of Big Jesus.

Even with my foggy head, I was still pretty darn excited to see Big Jesus in the soapstone flesh.  Did you know at 130 feet tall He’s only the 5thbiggest Jesus statue in the world?  Where the heck are the four bigger Jesi hiding?  He’s also, rightly, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

Christ the Redeemer
One of my favorite aspects of Big J was the attention to detail: he even had stigmata carved into his hands.

As with all major architectural attractions (think people ‘holding up’ the Leaning Tower of Pisa or posing like Lady Liberty), it was highly amusing to watch other people take their photos.  The popular poses at Corcovado include: (1) putting your arms in a ‘Touchdown’ formation so it looks like you’re holding Big Jesus up at the armpits, and (2) mimicking Big J’s pose to create a sort of “Jack and Rose on the Bow of the Titanic” shot.Christ the Redeemer

A really good samba band played us back down Corcovado, and I could tell I was not feeling well when I felt more like sleeping on Mr. M’s shoulder than dancing in the aisle.  Stupid germs.

As I’ve said before, Mr. M & I love ourselves a good botanical garden, and word on the street (thank you, Kina!) is that Rio has one of the finest.

Cannonball tree
My personal favorite garden find was the magnificent cannonball tree. The cannonball-like fruits are rock-hard and weigh several pounds… they can fatally injure people when they fall!  They also make a hearty booming sound when they hit the ground and crack open. Damn, nature! You scary.

The gardens were great- lots of tropical plants, a beautiful cactus garden, monkeys snacking on a ripe jackfruit tree, even coconut popsicles at the garden cafe- but one thing in particular caught our attention.

One of my favorite parts is the rear end photobombing this engagement shoot, as an oblivious visitor bends to smell an orchid.

Everywhere you looked (no really- Everywhere) there were amateur photography shots going down.  Pregnant women, quinceaneras, engagement shots, class photos…  I’m pretty sure we even saw one teenager trying to nail a better Facebook profile pic.  Public restrooms were taken over and transformed into makeshift dressing rooms.  It was a little crazy.

Rio Botanical Gardens
I got such a kick out of the ‘model’ shoots that I ended up getting more pictures of people taking pictures than of actual Garden Things. Woops.

Once we’d had our fill of observing the local flora and fauna, we struck off to walk the famous beaches of Rio de Janeiro.  Ipanema and Copcabana beaches are marked by postos (literally, numbered posts), which serve as a kind of beach address.  Some postos are known for hosting sporty types and are jam-packed with beach volleyball games.  Some are famous for their beautiful young things.  Others are more family-friendly. How very well-organized of you, Rio… and possibly clique-ish.

Beach boardwalk
The iconic Ipanema beach walkway

Although I went in expecting Touristy Overload, I enjoyed Ipanema a lot more than I imagined.  (Due in no small part to getting to sing the one line I know from the song “Girl From Ipanema” over & over & OVER again.  One posto in and Mr. M was looking for my off button: “I get it!  All the men she passes go ahhhh!  Next.”)

Because it was a Sunday, the main street along the beach was closed to vehicular traffic, and street and sand alike were filled with people playing, sunning, and generally enjoying life.

Ipanema beach
Mr. M & I noticed that for all the people at the beach, there were very few actually IN the water. Another Brazilian later told us it was due to pretty terrible water pollution in the city. Bummer, although there was certainly a lot of fun going down shoreside.

For those who might wonder, the thong bikini truly is a Thing down in Brazil.  Women of all ages, shapes, and sizes happily strut around in bottoms far skimpier than my average underpants (Writing this made me feel a little bad for Mr. M.  Sorry, dude)  and don’t give it another thought.  Except for one 60-ish-year old woman, whom we watched yank her string thong Up, and who was clearly giving it another thought, namely that suit bottoms just don’t come as Flossy as they used to.

With our prudish Puritanical roots, we Americans seem doomed to fuss & worry over body image.  It was honestly quite refreshing to see all these women waving it around like they just didn’t care.  For all the hype about Brazilian body image, the beaches of Ipanema seemed, happily, to be a very come-as-you-are, bohemian sort of environs.

Rio de Janeiro
Another thing- beyond body freedom- that I loved about Rio: the gorgeous, mural-type street art. So much character.

Copacabana, on the other hand, was a little less enthralling.  It honestly looked like the sort of place whose heyday has come and gone.  A little ragged around the edges with garish nails dug in to hold onto a former glory.  Nonetheless, it was crazy actually to BE on the Copacabana beaches, and it allowed me to channel my inner Barry Manilow; one’s never too ill to sing loudly about Lola the showgirl with feathers in her hair.

Having walked five miles or so, we were both exhausted and in need of sustenance.  We decided to splurge on lunch & comfy seats poolside at the Pergula Restaurant within the famed Copacabana Palace.  I do believe we succeeded in classing down the joint, but it was so much fun (And relatively inexpensive!  Full lunch for two with drinks totaled $30!).

I was attempting to perfect my “ladies who lunch poolside” look but mercifully cropped myself out.  Sick people should not attempt elitist poses.  It’s a recipe for ridiculousness.

As we cabbed it back to Casa Cool Beans, I realized I was absolutely positively Exhausted.  Mr. M & I walked for an early dinner nearby, but I felt nauseous.  It’s serious sad time when I’m too sick to enjoy food.

Rio de Janeiro
This street art right across from our B&B made me quite happy, though. Isn’t it beautiful?

As much as I hated doing it, I had to cut the night short and face-planted into a bed of crumpled tissues before 9pm.

Vitamin C may have let me down, but Big Jesus did not.  Considering we were sick for about half the trip and still managed to see and do everything planned can only mean we had a bit of Divine Intervention.

Cue the boom of thunder.

“You’re welcome, kids.”

Details of the Day:

Give it all you’ve got to make it to Corcovado before the tour buses show up around 10am.  So worth it.  The lines were verrry long when we left around 11am.

Rio de Janeiro
Big Jesus says: “Take pictures of as much street art as possible.”

Want More?

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Life Lessons from The Tourists
The Fruit of the Rainforest
An Autumn Weekend in Vermont
Portlandia: Eating My Way Through PDX
Grazing Through Madrid
Tags: beach Brazil garden new seven wonders rio de janeiro
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Comments

  1. pamasaurus October 3, 2012 Reply

    Beautiful photos!!! That street mural across from your B&B is amazing! I love how the roots are her hair!!

    • msdulce October 3, 2012 Reply

      That was one of my faves, too! I wish I could've gotten more street art pictures, but lots of places I was too nervous to whip out my camera and risk someone wanting to steal it. :}

      • pamasaurus October 3, 2012 Reply

        :/ Yeah, that wouldn't be good. At least you got a few of them. They're so pretty!

  2. Ardun Ward October 6, 2012 Reply

    Great photos! I can't wait to get there. Thanks for getting me pumped!

    • msdulce October 7, 2012 Reply

      Thank you so much, Ardun! It means a lot seeing how amazing your shots are... gorgeous! Other than being a bit cautious about whipping out my beloved camera, Rio really was a photographer's dream. You'll have an amazing time.

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