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March 25, 2014 | in Europe, Travel

Barthaylona, Part Dos: Gaudi in Wonderland

casa batllo gaudi barcelona spain

Day #11,578 (Barcelona, Spain): Having fallen hopelessly in love with architect Antoni Gaudí the day before, I scrapped all plans for a diversified trip (sometimes it’s overrated, friends) and determined there to be but one way to spend my last few hours in the city of Barthaylona.

churros con chocolate barcelona spain
Two ways. Let’s not discount the supreme importance of churros con chocolate from a random hole-in-the-wall bakery.

I hadn’t planned on visiting Casa Batlló, thinking that two Gaudí masterpieces (Casa Milà & La Sagrada Familia) would be enough to saturate my architectural attention span. But sometimes you gotta go where the travel winds blow.

casa batllo gaudi barcelona spain
Casa Batllo, redesigned by Gaudi in 1904, stands out like a confetti-tiled wonderland. How could I not be drawn in?

Just like that, the whimsically enchanting facade of Casa Batlló instantly altered my travel plans.  (The Passeig de Gràcia seems determined to peak your interest, at the very least… just next door from Casa Batlló is a stunning, oft-ignored house with an equally interesting story, told here by two of my most favorite travel bloggers, James & Terri!)

casa amatller barcelona spain
Casa Amantller was built by a chocolate baron and features stone rhinos in its facade.

Not about to disappoint, the interior of Casa Batlló was a wonderland of nature immortalized in architectural form.

gaudi casa batllo barcelona spain
The sweeping staircase leading into the main living quarters looked exactly like a vertebral column!

The curving lines, the undulating reflection of light off the blue & seafoam tiles… standing in the inner courtyard felt a bit like swimming underwater.

casa batllo courtyard barcelona spain gaudi
Don’t the textured tiles look like bubbles rising up to the water’s surface?

I turned unexpectedly to find myself looking into Gaudí’s courtyard through tempered glass:

gaudi casa batllo barcelona spain
If this doesn’t look like being underwater, I don’t know what does.

Even elements that didn’t feel immediately organic held a profound sense of magic.

gaudi casa batllo barcelona spain
Magical! (Also, isn’t the painted ceiling reminiscent of fish or reptile scales?)

I don’t know if he himself considered it a strong suit, but Gaudí knew how to make one kick-ass roof.  It’s not certain what his exact intents were in the design, but legend has it that the colorful rooftop of Casa Batlló was made to look like a dragon’s back, with the single cross turret meant to signify the sword wielded by the city’s patron saint, St George.

casa batllo rooftop barcelona spain gaudi
The reptilian rooftop.  The round tiles reminded me of blue-green tortoise shells!

Although I could’ve allowed myself to get completely lost in the architectural wonderland, I was determined not to be the person who did nothing but “Gaudí” during my entire stay in Barcelona.

Mr. M suggested that our last Spanish adventure before leaving for Morocco be getting ourselves heartily lost in the labyrinthine alleyways of Barcelona’s old Barri Gòtic neighborhood.

barri gotic barcelona spain
The medieval Barri Gotic was the original center of the city, and many of the streets remain cobblestoned and vehicle-free.

We found ourselves in the midst of a Sunday Farmer’s Market…barri gotic barcelona spain

… in front of a beautiful cathedral on the Plaça de la Seu…

barri gotic barcelona spain

… and wandering into a chocolate shop (or xocolata, as it’s termed in Catalan) for a sweet treat.

vicenes turron barcelona spain
The turron is a classically Spanish Christmas treat. It was a scrumptiously nutty nougat made of honey & egg whites… and it didn’t last long.

I’m guilty of over-planning many of our international trips. I can’t help wanting to maximize my time in travel, in adventure, and in life.

But whether wonderland consists of a serpentine maze of medieval alleyways or strangely enchanting architecture… it can be beautiful falling down a rabbit hole to surreal places previously unknown.

The world really is curiouser and curiouser.

gaudi barcelona casa batllo spain
Bone window pillars. Of course!

Explore my previous day’s adventure finding “wow” in Gaudi’s most famous architecture!

Explore the second half of Day #11,578 discovering that Casablanca is vastly less exciting than Hollywood would have us believe.

You Can Do It, Too!

Even if the unique facade doesn’t catch your attention, the crowds in front of Casa Batlló (Passeig de Gràcia, 43) will. Prepare for a wait to buy your entrance tickets (which include a free audiotour), but know the wait is well worth it!

After visiting Casa Batllo, simply follow the Passeig de Gràcia down to the Barri Gòtic.  Then throw your map away.  It’s much more fun that way, and you can always follow fellow visitors back to the main Plaça de la Seu square.

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Tags: architecture Barcelona Europe photography Spain
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Comments

  1. Jenn March 25, 2014 Reply

    You had me with the first picture of pastry and chocolate :P yummy! Such a beautiful adventure! I can only dream of seeing places like this...or live through you...hahahaha... I don't know if I told you or not, but my mother-in-law and sister-in-law are heading to Iceland in April for Easter break...I directed them to your posts about your trip....they are so excited to be going! Have a great week!

    • Miranda Santiago March 26, 2014 Reply

      How exciting!! :) I didn't know that you had family heading to Iceland! We only spent a couple days there (and stuck to the southern coast), but if I can answer any questions or help at all, please let me know!! I'm curious to hear what they think! Ha ha, if not for those pesky things called calories (so annoying, aren't they?), I'd want to start EVERY day with churros & chocolate. Soooo good... :)

  2. Terri March 25, 2014 Reply

    Wow Miranda, you certainly captured the wonderful essence that is Casa Batlló. In addition to the undulating facade, I just love the roofline. And I didn't know the story of what it is said to represent. Brilliant! And thank you for the lovely shout-out for The House That Chocolate Built. It's hard to believe there are 2 such interesting houses (and their stories) sitting next door to each other. I was in heaven. Fabulous post! All the best, Terri & James

    • Miranda Santiago March 26, 2014 Reply

      I'd read your fascinating post before visiting Barcelona, and I couldn't help but find my attention wandering from Casa Batllo to its equally intriguing neighbor! Thank *you* for making Spanish architecture even more interesting. (Mr. M got to hear the whole House That Chocolate Built story while we waited in line to buy tickets!)

  3. Pam March 28, 2014 Reply

    You just reminded me that I haven't been to Philly to get churros con chocolate yet. Dammit, ha. It will happen soon because YUM. So, I think Casa Batllo is the coolest place ever. I kinda want to live there. It definitely does have an underwater feel to it, even if my opinion is only based on your photographs.

    • Miranda Santiago March 31, 2014 Reply

      Although I completely understand you have way more important things going on in life (like growing a human, for one), the churros con chocolate must happen. They redefine breakfast. I totally wanted to live in Casa Batllo, too! I was trying to figure out how to decorate at least a part of our house in Batllo Style, and I decided on putting up a blue-to-white gradient tile backsplash in the kitchen (kind of similar to the pictures of the inner courtyard that I posted). I *think*. It seems difficult but far easier than finding a vertebra-staircase or bone pillars. I'll let you know how it goes. ;)

      • Pam March 31, 2014 Reply

        Well, the human I'm growing strongly wants some churros con chocolate, too. The weather is (finally) getting better. That means quick day trip may be in order. Would it be bad to have churros con chocolate and gelato in one trip? I know the best gelato place.... yum. I bet your back splash will look amazing! I've been trying to find a back splash idea for my kitchen, but will probably end up with plain white tiles because I painted the walls pumpkin orange and dark green. Don't want to overdo it in there ;)

        • Miranda Santiago March 31, 2014 Reply

          Bad to combine churros & gelato?! No. Genius, I'd say.

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