Spend Your Days the way you want to spend your life
  • Home
  • About
    • About Miranda
  • Destinations
    • N. America
      • USA
      • Canada
      • Puerto Rico
    • Europe
      • Czech Republic
      • England
      • France
      • Greece
      • Iceland
      • Ireland
      • Italy
      • Netherlands
      • Poland
      • Portugal
      • Spain
      • Switzerland
      • UK
      • Vatican City
    • S. America
      • Argentina
      • Belize
      • Brazil
      • Ecuador
      • Galapagos
      • guatemala
      • peru
    • Asia
      • Bali
      • Borneo
      • cambodia
      • Indonesia
      • japan
      • Malaysia
      • Singapore
    • Africa
      • Morocco
      • South Africa
    • Pacific
      • Australia
      • New Zealand
January 19, 2013 | in Europe, Travel

Bom Ano Novo in Portugal, Part Dois: The Indispensable Randomness of NYE

Sintra Portugal

Days #11,188-9:  After a youth spent despising New Year’s Eve for its empty, sequined promises that never met the enormity expected of Last Night of the Year (ugh, or the Millennium… NYE 1999 was particularly horrid) my old age hath brought wisdom.

Sintra Portugal
We spent the day part of NYE 2012 visiting the royal town of Sintra and the Portuguese National Palace.

The key to a good New Year’s Eve somehow isn’t good planning (this concept alone kind of shattered my anal-retentive view of the Universe).  The key… drum roll, please… is the exact opposite: randomness.  Add as many disparate ingredients as possible, and ta da!  The more closely your evening approximates the set-up for a bizarre improv sketch, the better.

Without further ado, my own personal recipe for New Year’s Eve 2012:

Sintra Portugal Palace
Alright, a tiny bit of ado. But this picture of the inside of the National Palace at Sintra was too gorgeous to leave out.

*Start the evening off with an epic life event, if possible. (Bash + Jess went off for a walk before dinner and came back… engaged! Eeee!!  I will admit, the rest of us had an inkling this was happening.  L.P. & I prematurely freaked out in excitement, made a pact to play it cool, then subsequently, did not play it cool.  Jess is awesome.  I’m so glad we get to keep her.)

*Add in the obligatory fancy-schmancy New Year’s dinner.  Drink too much champagne.  Drink too much wine.  Drink too much port.  Put on your Serious Stealth Face like the previous three things have not happened.

*Mix in a healthy dose of wandering.  Be open to The Strange, which serves as seasoning and can make or break the evening.  (This year’s Strange involved a street party with the worst DJ ever… the “Baywatch” theme song was the siren call that originally lured us over… and a very brief stop in what was either an 80’s-themed dance joint or a Portuguese strip club.  Very brief.)

*Do the robot to Slavic folk music.  Ignore pointed looks from the British couple mad-dogging your style.  Keep dancing until music gets so bad that even dancing the running man cannot save it.  Decide to curl up on a stairwell landing somewhere along the four floor climb up to the apartment.  Thank the Lord that you have a Responsible-Adult husband to make sure you wake up to 2013 in a bed and not in a Portuguese stairwell.

Sintra Portugal
Gorgeous tilework in Sintra because NYE somehow did not get photographed by any of us.

The morning after this particular beautifully random New Year’s Eve, the time seemed right to take our first road trip into the cork forests of Portugal.  The boys were put in charge of procuring a Little Miss Sunshine-esque van capable of carrying six and returned with a stick-shift hatchback the size of a Honda Civic.

This is *exactly* what I pictured when I imagined us traveling through Portugal.  Exactly.
This is *exactly* what I pictured when I imagined us traveling through Portugal. Exactly.

An insistent Portuguese woman at Hertz swore it would fit 7 adults plus luggage and climbed into the dungeonous third row bench to demonstrate.

She was right... it did at least fit 6 adults fairly comfortably. The back bench was less about physical discomfort than it was psychological torture... you couldn't hear anything going on in the rest of the car. "What?! Hey guys! What?!"  This was L.P.'s turn in isolation.  Photo courtesy of Brother B.
The back bench was less about physical discomfort than it was psychological torture… you couldn’t hear anything going on in the rest of the car. “What?! Hey guys! What?! Are we at least there yet?” This was L.P.’s turn in isolation. Photo courtesy of Brother B.

I imagine the Hertz woman has shared a similar anecdote from the opposite viewpoint: “The minivan wasn’t even big enough for them!”  while shaking her head and laughing about the ridiculousness of Americans.

Big Jesus Lisbon Portugal
It’s a fact: Portuguese-speakers enjoy a good Big Jesus. Big J 2.0, of whom we got a close-up view on our way out of Lisbon, lives in the shadow of his bigger brother from Rio de Janeiro. Photo courtesy of Brother B up in the front seat.

L.P. confirmed that, even crammed into the 3rd row bench, the scenery through the middle Alentejo region of Portugal is beautiful.  After seeing something about a Portuguese Stonehenge called Cromeleque das Almendras in the middle of the vineyards and cork forests, Mr. M- our Responsible-Adult designated driver- pulled off onto dirt roads to find it.

Alentejo Portugal
The scenic- albeit somewhat bumpy… it was my turn to sit in the way back- drive through the cork forest to faux Stonehenge.  Photo courtesy of Brother B.

The Cromeleque was underwhelming at best; some modern enterpriser had apparently “replaced” the rocks where he imagined the ancients would’ve put them if they’d wanted to make a Stonehenge.  Right.

Cromeleque Stonehenge Portugal
Fake Stonehenge? Fake excitement.  Photo courtesy of Brother B.

The highlight ended up being the drive out there, where we got our first close-up of a cork tree.

Cork forest Portugal
Portugal produces over half of the world’s cork, and this is a harvested cork tree! The cork is from the outer bark, which really does feel spongey, just how you would imagine. It takes 9 yrs to regrow after being harvested.

Our ragtag road trip continued on to Evora, a medieval walled city in the center of the country, where we stopped for lunch at a hole-in-the-wall doner kebab place assuredly missing from any guidebook and were offered up the best meal we’d have in Portugal.  Who knew?

“Walking it off” led directly into the Evora town square, where the locals were all congregated around a massive bonfire.

Evora Portugal
Evora, courtesy of Jess.

An elderly gentleman ushered us over to warm ourselves by the fire.  He smiled and stepped out of the way so we could get up close to the crackling flames.  This was my favorite memory of Evora.  Not the cathedral or the Roman ruins that we were supposed to see…

Roman Ruin Evora Portugal
Although these Roman ruins were cool, too.

…but standing around that bonfire watching kids evade their parents and old people gossip and the general, pulsing hubbub of Portuguese humanity.

After we made it home, Brother B & L.P. made us veggie stew & garlic bread.
After we made it back to our Lisbon home, Brother B & L.P. made us veggie stew & garlic bread (no cheese omelet for the herbivore tonight, baby!), and we spent the first evening of 2013 enjoying a family feast.  Photo courtesy of Bash.

Like the recipe for a successful New Year’s Eve that took me twenty-something years to discover, our trip to Portugal revealed that sometimes a loose & adaptable recipe works better than my usual stringent regiment.  A dash of this and a pinch of that.

There’s something to be said for randomness, no?

Evora Portugal
Random cobblestoned alleyway in Evora

To explore the next day’s adventure eating goat ear stew at somewhere called “O Bizarro,” click here!

To explore the previous day’s adventure channeling my inner Swashbuckling Explorer, click here! 

Details of the Day:

Transportation: As in all other European countries- and much of the rest of the world- if you’re renting a car in Portugal, it’s likely gonna be a stick shift.  This shouldn’t be too much of an issue, as newer manual cars are fairly easy to drive (an aside: when did kids stop learning to drive stick shift cars?  Am I really that old?) except that Lisbon is a city built on hills.  It’s best to make your designated driver someone who really does know his or her way around a manual transmission.  Especially if you’ll be driving a Portuguese minivan without benefit of a map like us.

25 de Abril Lisbon Bridge
NOT the Golden Gate Bridge.  (Looks like the designers of Lisbon’s 25 de Abril Bridge copied off someone else’s paper…) Lisbon has adopted the notably unique strategy of shamelessly appropriating other cities’ icons.  And surprisingly it works!  Photo courtesy of Brother B.

Also be sure to invest in the Portuguese version of California’s FastTrak when renting your car, as this allows you to pay immediately and electronically for the many (many) highway tolls, rather than digging through seat cushions scavenging for Euros.

Want More?

Viva (visa?) Brasil!
Both Sides of the Tracks in South Africa
The Land of Fire & Ice, Part Einn: Independence
A Different Point of View in the Catskills
2013 Holiday Travel Gift Guide!
(Re-)Becoming a Local in New York City
Tags: Europe Evora holiday Lisbon Portugal travel lessons
Join Discussion
7 0
Previous Story2012: The Retrospective Next StoryA Winter Weekend in Montreal

Comments

  1. Kinpatsu Oneesan January 21, 2013 Reply

    Found this quite entertaining--I must get back to Portugal! Most lovely place I've been so far!

    • msdulce January 21, 2013 Reply

      Why thank you! Portugal was so unexpectedly charming... sometimes more unexpected than charming, but ever-entertaining. ;) I hope you're able to get back soon!

  2. pamasaurus January 21, 2013 Reply

    My recipe for an amazing NYE consists of only one thing: amazing people. You seem to have forgotten that in your recipe, even though you obviously had it on that evening! Sounds like an amazing time!! I'm a planner, too, but there is definitely something to be said for randomness. I'm just always worried it'll turn into one of those 'what do you want to do?' 'IDK, what do you want to do?' moments :/

    • msdulce January 21, 2013 Reply

      YES! How did I manage to take such a key ingredient for granted? You're 100% right, amazing people are Essential.

  3. Pingback: Bom Ano Novo in Portugal: The Path to Port | Spend Your Days

    […] #11,190: Having successfully completed our first Portuguese road trip, our band of six graduated to the next level: an overnight trip into the Porto region of the […]

    Reply
  4. Pingback: That’s Amore | Spend Your Days

    […] are currently in San Diego for a very special wedding.  Whose wedding, you ask?  Bash & Jess, who got engaged on our New Year’s Eve trip to Portugal!  Watching this love story come full circle is the best way I could imagine spending my day. […]

    Reply
  5. Pingback: Bom Ano Novo in Portugal: The Ups & Downs of Exploration | Spend Your Days

    […] To read about our next day’s adventure celebrating New Year’s Eve in Lisbon, click here! […]

    Reply

Leave a Reply to That’s Amore | Spend Your Days Cancel Reply

(not be shared)